Pennine Way 21 Housesteads to Bellingham

We thought we were in for an easier walk today, 11 miles and all day to do it in, no problems. All I can say is that these must have been Roman miles as in English miles it was much nearer to 14 than 11. Fortunately the weather was dry but still cold and overcast.
We were dropped off on the road and made our way to Rapishaw Gap where the Pennine Way leaves Hadrian's Wall and turns north to the forests and distant views of the Cheviots, our journey's end....but not just yet!

Today we had marshy areas, forest, fields and moors and plenty of uphill, or so it seemed to me. The group split into two after lunch as some were ready to move on before others. A lone Pennine Way walker caught up with us with 6 miles left to go and put us to shame as he had walked all the way from Greenhead with a 12 kilo pack on his back and he was 70 years old. Mind you he was nearly done for but he stayed with us to the end and had plenty to talk about as he had married a Bradford girl many years ago.




I was in the breakaway group and Margaret had a map that went most of the way to Bellingham so apart from one or two places where the path wasn't too well marked we didn't have any problems finding the way.







One last climb up to the radio mast on Shitlington Crag and then at last Bellingham could be seen in the distance and thoughts of a nice cup of tea kept us going till the end.

Pennine Way 20 Greenhead to Housesteads

We set off from Bradford at 9.00 am and after quite a long journey we started our walk about 12.15. The weather was cold and overcast with rain in the air but this cleared away as the afternoon wore on. It certainly didn't feel like Spring but I heard my first cuckoo of the year just before lunch which was a welcome sound.

After turning left...or was it right....at Thirlwall Castle we made our way to the visitor centre and lunch before setting off along Hadrian's Wall. Only 10 miles today but a very strenuous 10 miles along the best preserved part of the wall with frequent ups and downs rather like walking on a coastal path. A few who had done this part before opted to shorten the walk and drop down to Once Brewed. The rest of us carried on a mile or so beyond the point where the Pennine Way branched off to the left and finished at Housesteads where William was waiting patiently with the coach to take us to the hostel or on to Haltwhistle. We arrived at the hostel just as dinner was about to be served.















Once Brewed YHA in the sunshine........looks good, better than I remember it!!

Pennine Way 19 Knarsdale to Greenhead

Sunday dawned bright but a bit cooler and breezier as we went by coach back to the viaduct.



A short climb uphill and then we made our way along the Maiden Way which is an old Roman Road.















The books had led us to believe that this was a boring bit of the Pennine Way and we would see nothing but bog all day long. Well yes we did go through some boggy places and one or two people did get water in their boots but there was at least one person who kept his boots dry all day long! Barefoot hiking might catch on.











The walking seemed easier today and we had plenty of time for tea stops and lunch but the views weren't quite as good as yesterday so I haven't as many photos.

We picked our way carefully over Blenkinsop Common up to the highest point Black Hill where we got our first sighting of the Cheviots in the not too far distance. Journey's end doesn't seem too far away but we've a few hard days walking yet before we get there.

The 'A' party had a run in with some cows protecting their calves but thankfully they didn't bother with the 'B' party and we passed them by without a problem.





After a brief stop at a ruined barn we made our way towards the A69 and civilisation. Our first sight of civilisation was a deep gorge filled with rubbish and old cookers and washing machines that had been illegally dumped! Rather a depressing sight after all the beautiful countryside we had walked through.



As we approached Greenhead alongside the golf course we came to the Vallum, a defensive ditch which runs south of Hadrian's Wall. Our walk today finished at Greenhead in the tea room or the pub.
Next time we will be on Hadrian's Wall and if you want to find out more about the history of the wall and have a few minutes to spare follow this link and Neil Oliver will tell you all you need to know!

Thanks to Peter for his photographic contributions to the blog. I did manage to get a few of my own in this time!

Pennine Way 18 Garrigill to Knarsdale

After the coldest winter for many years we were all looking forward to resuming our trek along the Pennine Way starting with a lovely weekend away staying in Alston.

This is the YHA directly on the Pennine Way. A very comfortable hostel with a nice friendly atmosphere and red squirrels playing in the trees right outside the windows. The hostel is privately owned by a lovely couple Val and David, and the food was of a very high standard. One to visit again I'm sure. Although the facilities may not be as good as staying in a B&B, the shared experience of the group staying in the hostel adds greatly to the enjoyment of the occasion and I can highly recommend it especially if you are on your own.

I had a quick look around Alston before the walk started on Saturday morning. It is England's highest market town with many 18th century buildings and cobbled streets.






















Our walk started in Garrigill and followed a pleasant track alongside the South Tyne river.





The weather was fine but a bit cold in the breeze and out of the sun. After passsing through Alston we made our way uphill and down dale to Slaggyford which didn't really live up to it's name.

The scenery was beautiful but I think we were all feeling a bit weary by the time we arrived at the viaduct at Burnstones Only a short hop from there and William was waiting for us conveniently parked outside the Kirkstyle Inn at Knarsdale where the 'A' party had been filling in time waiting for us to arrive!

As an extra bonus to our Pennine Way adventure we had managed to hit on the only weekend when there was to be a celebration of the Romans leaving Hadrian's Wall 1600 years ago! Beacons were lit at 200 metre intervals all along the wall from Wallsend to Carlisle. We were advised by Val at the YHA of a suitable viewing point where we could park the coach and William volunteered to take us up there before dinner.

We were quite a way from the wall but it was possible to see several of the beacons and I did manage to capture this on camera but the quality of the photo isn't brilliant.




Back at the hostel we had time for a quick shower before a splendid meal of homemade chicken pie and sticky toffee pudding. Some went down to the town for a drink but many of us were too contented to bother and were looking forward to another good walk the following day.

Just a little reminder to those who may not have visited the blog before, if you click on the green highlighted words this will take you to further pictures or information about the places we have visited and if you click on 'beacons' you can see a short clip on Youtube showing an aerial view of the beacons.

Pennine Way 17 Dufton to Garrigill

Today's walk promised to be a hard one as it covered the highest point on the Pennine Way, was 16 miles long and involved around 3000ft of climbing. The 'B' party had the option of taking a mini bus covering the first 4 miles and the bulk of the climb. I decided with some of the 'B' party to join the 'A' party for this walk and hope that we could keep up!

We set of at a brisk place in almost fine weather, just a passing shower and a bit of mist around. It wasn't long before the usual 'A' party members were well ahead of the 'B' s that had joined them but at least the leaders Malcolm and Steve were kind to us and gave us encouragement to carry on.


We made our way steadily upwards passing numerous cairns to Knock Fell (2604ft) and then to the radar station where we stopped for lunch with views of Cow Green reservoir in the distance.




After lunch the final push to Little Dun Fell (2761 ft) and the shelter on the summit of Cross Fell (2930 ft). Yes it was quite a hard slog for me but the sense of achievement made it worthwhile.

After a moment to draw breath, touch the trig point and admire the view, off we set again down hill thankfully with wonderful views all around us. A short visit to Greg's Hut, a mountain bothy that would have been a haven in bad weather but fortunately not needed by us on this occasion!

The rest of the walk sounds easy, all down hill, a miner's track to follow, easy-peasy! However the miner's path, known as the Corpse Road, goes on for seven long miles down to Garrigill and for the most part is a rough stony surface that punishes the soles of your feet and ankles. Thankfully the weather was still good, the views were splendid and we chatted to each other along the way to help pass the time. The people at the front of the 'A' party only just caught the 'B' party before they reached the end of the walk.

At last the sleepy village of Garrigill came into view and a chance to sit for a while on the village green and reflect on a good weekend's walking and 29 more miles of the Pennine Way under our belts!

On the coach at last, a very friendly group, shared their remaining food and drink as William drove us safely home again. No more Pennine Way walks now until next March, so hopefully all the winter weather will have gone by the time we return to Garrigill in 2010.
Thanks to Peter who took all today's photos. I didn't have the energy for photos and climbing hills!

Pennine Way 16 Langdon Beck to Dufton

A hard weekend ahead of us as we set off on Friday evening to stay in Dufton or near by in Appleby. I stayed in the YHA at Dufton and was lucky enough to see a red squirrel in the garden on Sunday morning!















It took us quite a while to reach Langdon Beck on Saturday morning and we were all relieved to pick up where we left off last time and head off into the wilds of Upper Teesdale. Here we walked beside the winding river which was quite difficult at times crossing numerous rock falls.

And then suddenly the river bends to the right and the noise of Cauldron Snout can be heard as it rushes down a rocky gorge. Quite a steep and exciting climb up the side of the waterfall takes you to the dam wall of Cow Green Reservoir where we stoppd for a lunch break.


















After lunch we left the River Tees behind us and followed Maize Beck until it reached the highlight of the day High Cup NickThe views were incredible and Peter has taken some splendid photographs of this vast glaciated bowl.

We followed the north rim of the valley with the silvery thread of High Cup Gill glinting in the sunshine far below. A few miles further on we dropped down into Dufton where a tepid shower (if you were lucky!), and a blazing fire awaited us. We spent a very pleasant evening chatting, eating and drinking before retiring to bed to get a good night's sleep before the next demanding day on the fells.

Pennine Way 15 Middleton in Teesdale to Langdon Beck

Today's walk was a very peaceful one beside the River Tees for most of the day. The weather was kind to us again and the sun came out later in the day. A short walk but a very beautiful one with the main attractions being the waterfalls of Low Force and High Force. I will let the pictures of the river in all its moods tell their own tale.

High Force is the highest unbroken fall of water in England at 70 ft (21 mtrs).