Pennine Way 19 Knarsdale to Greenhead

Sunday dawned bright but a bit cooler and breezier as we went by coach back to the viaduct.



A short climb uphill and then we made our way along the Maiden Way which is an old Roman Road.















The books had led us to believe that this was a boring bit of the Pennine Way and we would see nothing but bog all day long. Well yes we did go through some boggy places and one or two people did get water in their boots but there was at least one person who kept his boots dry all day long! Barefoot hiking might catch on.











The walking seemed easier today and we had plenty of time for tea stops and lunch but the views weren't quite as good as yesterday so I haven't as many photos.

We picked our way carefully over Blenkinsop Common up to the highest point Black Hill where we got our first sighting of the Cheviots in the not too far distance. Journey's end doesn't seem too far away but we've a few hard days walking yet before we get there.

The 'A' party had a run in with some cows protecting their calves but thankfully they didn't bother with the 'B' party and we passed them by without a problem.





After a brief stop at a ruined barn we made our way towards the A69 and civilisation. Our first sight of civilisation was a deep gorge filled with rubbish and old cookers and washing machines that had been illegally dumped! Rather a depressing sight after all the beautiful countryside we had walked through.



As we approached Greenhead alongside the golf course we came to the Vallum, a defensive ditch which runs south of Hadrian's Wall. Our walk today finished at Greenhead in the tea room or the pub.
Next time we will be on Hadrian's Wall and if you want to find out more about the history of the wall and have a few minutes to spare follow this link and Neil Oliver will tell you all you need to know!

Thanks to Peter for his photographic contributions to the blog. I did manage to get a few of my own in this time!

Pennine Way 18 Garrigill to Knarsdale

After the coldest winter for many years we were all looking forward to resuming our trek along the Pennine Way starting with a lovely weekend away staying in Alston.

This is the YHA directly on the Pennine Way. A very comfortable hostel with a nice friendly atmosphere and red squirrels playing in the trees right outside the windows. The hostel is privately owned by a lovely couple Val and David, and the food was of a very high standard. One to visit again I'm sure. Although the facilities may not be as good as staying in a B&B, the shared experience of the group staying in the hostel adds greatly to the enjoyment of the occasion and I can highly recommend it especially if you are on your own.

I had a quick look around Alston before the walk started on Saturday morning. It is England's highest market town with many 18th century buildings and cobbled streets.






















Our walk started in Garrigill and followed a pleasant track alongside the South Tyne river.





The weather was fine but a bit cold in the breeze and out of the sun. After passsing through Alston we made our way uphill and down dale to Slaggyford which didn't really live up to it's name.

The scenery was beautiful but I think we were all feeling a bit weary by the time we arrived at the viaduct at Burnstones Only a short hop from there and William was waiting for us conveniently parked outside the Kirkstyle Inn at Knarsdale where the 'A' party had been filling in time waiting for us to arrive!

As an extra bonus to our Pennine Way adventure we had managed to hit on the only weekend when there was to be a celebration of the Romans leaving Hadrian's Wall 1600 years ago! Beacons were lit at 200 metre intervals all along the wall from Wallsend to Carlisle. We were advised by Val at the YHA of a suitable viewing point where we could park the coach and William volunteered to take us up there before dinner.

We were quite a way from the wall but it was possible to see several of the beacons and I did manage to capture this on camera but the quality of the photo isn't brilliant.




Back at the hostel we had time for a quick shower before a splendid meal of homemade chicken pie and sticky toffee pudding. Some went down to the town for a drink but many of us were too contented to bother and were looking forward to another good walk the following day.

Just a little reminder to those who may not have visited the blog before, if you click on the green highlighted words this will take you to further pictures or information about the places we have visited and if you click on 'beacons' you can see a short clip on Youtube showing an aerial view of the beacons.

Pennine Way 17 Dufton to Garrigill

Today's walk promised to be a hard one as it covered the highest point on the Pennine Way, was 16 miles long and involved around 3000ft of climbing. The 'B' party had the option of taking a mini bus covering the first 4 miles and the bulk of the climb. I decided with some of the 'B' party to join the 'A' party for this walk and hope that we could keep up!

We set of at a brisk place in almost fine weather, just a passing shower and a bit of mist around. It wasn't long before the usual 'A' party members were well ahead of the 'B' s that had joined them but at least the leaders Malcolm and Steve were kind to us and gave us encouragement to carry on.


We made our way steadily upwards passing numerous cairns to Knock Fell (2604ft) and then to the radar station where we stopped for lunch with views of Cow Green reservoir in the distance.




After lunch the final push to Little Dun Fell (2761 ft) and the shelter on the summit of Cross Fell (2930 ft). Yes it was quite a hard slog for me but the sense of achievement made it worthwhile.

After a moment to draw breath, touch the trig point and admire the view, off we set again down hill thankfully with wonderful views all around us. A short visit to Greg's Hut, a mountain bothy that would have been a haven in bad weather but fortunately not needed by us on this occasion!

The rest of the walk sounds easy, all down hill, a miner's track to follow, easy-peasy! However the miner's path, known as the Corpse Road, goes on for seven long miles down to Garrigill and for the most part is a rough stony surface that punishes the soles of your feet and ankles. Thankfully the weather was still good, the views were splendid and we chatted to each other along the way to help pass the time. The people at the front of the 'A' party only just caught the 'B' party before they reached the end of the walk.

At last the sleepy village of Garrigill came into view and a chance to sit for a while on the village green and reflect on a good weekend's walking and 29 more miles of the Pennine Way under our belts!

On the coach at last, a very friendly group, shared their remaining food and drink as William drove us safely home again. No more Pennine Way walks now until next March, so hopefully all the winter weather will have gone by the time we return to Garrigill in 2010.
Thanks to Peter who took all today's photos. I didn't have the energy for photos and climbing hills!

Pennine Way 16 Langdon Beck to Dufton

A hard weekend ahead of us as we set off on Friday evening to stay in Dufton or near by in Appleby. I stayed in the YHA at Dufton and was lucky enough to see a red squirrel in the garden on Sunday morning!















It took us quite a while to reach Langdon Beck on Saturday morning and we were all relieved to pick up where we left off last time and head off into the wilds of Upper Teesdale. Here we walked beside the winding river which was quite difficult at times crossing numerous rock falls.

And then suddenly the river bends to the right and the noise of Cauldron Snout can be heard as it rushes down a rocky gorge. Quite a steep and exciting climb up the side of the waterfall takes you to the dam wall of Cow Green Reservoir where we stoppd for a lunch break.


















After lunch we left the River Tees behind us and followed Maize Beck until it reached the highlight of the day High Cup NickThe views were incredible and Peter has taken some splendid photographs of this vast glaciated bowl.

We followed the north rim of the valley with the silvery thread of High Cup Gill glinting in the sunshine far below. A few miles further on we dropped down into Dufton where a tepid shower (if you were lucky!), and a blazing fire awaited us. We spent a very pleasant evening chatting, eating and drinking before retiring to bed to get a good night's sleep before the next demanding day on the fells.

Pennine Way 15 Middleton in Teesdale to Langdon Beck

Today's walk was a very peaceful one beside the River Tees for most of the day. The weather was kind to us again and the sun came out later in the day. A short walk but a very beautiful one with the main attractions being the waterfalls of Low Force and High Force. I will let the pictures of the river in all its moods tell their own tale.

High Force is the highest unbroken fall of water in England at 70 ft (21 mtrs).

Pennine Way 14 Pasture End to Middleton in Teesdale

At last our luck with the weather ran out and although it was the middle of August it felt more like the start of autumn and the promise of a better afternoon never arrived until we were on the bus home. I didn't take many photos today but if you click on this link you can see many more.

A fairly short walk today and because of the lack of sunshine the views of the reservoirs and Hannah Hauxwell's house were not particularly inspiring, The beautiful meadows of wild flowers that surround her house were long gone unfortunately but we were rewarded with the first heather of the season on Bowes Moor.












We stopped for a lunch break in the shelter of the wall at Baldersdale and this spot marked the half way point of the Pennine Way....only 128 miles to go!!


Its amazing how the weather affects the mood of the group and although it wasn't raining very hard and it wasn't particularly cold the mood was rather low key today and it didn't really improve until we reached the end of the walk and the cafe at Middleton in Teesdale that was just about to close until we all trooped in and took over!

So not as picturesque as Swaledale but we have reached the river Tees and are looking forward to a riverside walk with plenty of waterfalls to come.

Pennine Way 13 Thwaite to Pasture End

The more observant of you might have noticed that Pennine Way 12 is missing. No we haven't missed a section out, we started where we finished last time, it's just the numbering in the booklet that went a bit wrong. Perhaps if it had been called correctly number 12 we may not have had so many accidents! Jackie only managed a few yards down the road before falling heavily on her elbow and had to hijack a passing landrover to get her to civilisation and LGI to be stitched up. Later on Janet tripped on some duckboards and hit her face and Derek toppled over a couple of times as well. Plenty for Stuart to enter in the accident book!!





We set off in good weather again after passing through a heavy shower whilst still on the coach and it remained dry for the rest of the day. There was a bit of a climb as we left Thwaite behind us and made our way up Kisdon Hill.
It wasn't long before the magnificent views of Swaledale opened up before us and we had an early lunch to make the most of the fabulous scenery.

The path became a bit rocky as we progressed towards Keld and dropped down to cross the river which had plenty of water in it. If we had been doing this walk a couple of days earlier we would have had a very wet day to contend with.

By this time we were running a bit behind schedule and there was no time to linger near the waterfalls, that would have to wait for another day. A last look at the tiny hamlet of Keld, which is an old Norse word meaning well or spring, and then a fine stretch of path across Stonesdale Moor with Tan Hill beckoning in the distance.

All the photographs today were taken by Peter Newby, with or without his shoes on!

After a short stop at Tan Hill to regroup and have some refreshment we set off across 'the sheep swallowing wastes of Sleightholme Moor' as described in my book! It was certainly boggy although considering the amount of rain that had fallen it could have been much worse. It did slow our progress and we were a bit late for the coach but nobody seemed to mind too much as it had been quite a long hard walk for the 'B' party.

As we crossed the moor we left beautiful Yorkshire behind us and crossed the border into County Durham. The walk ended shortly after crossing the River Greta by the natural stone bridge known as God's Bridge. A fine end to a fine walk.